Han No Daidokoro Restaurant

Han No Daidokoro Restaurant

Han no Daidokoro Kadochika is a sleek lounge tucked into the fourth floor of the Dogenzaka Center Building. Inside, the wood appointments are inlaid with a circular metal thatch—the key indicator of yakiniku, or grilled meats. The name of the game here is wagyu, but not just any wagyu; rather, beef from Yamagata, a prefecture second to none in its caliber of cattle-raising.

What’s the crowd like? Somber businessmen (loosening up with each passing round) and gregarious groups of carnivorous friends.

What should we be drinking? Ice-cold lagers: the perfect accompaniment to seared wagyu beef.

Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown especially what not to miss. Seared Yamagata beef is a beautiful thing—and not just for your Instagram feed. It melts in your mouth, leaving nothing but a trail of unctuous umami in its wake. Order the Yamagata Gyu Ittougai, a sampling of as many as six varieties of wagyu, all sliced thin and ready to hit the grill.