Daring takes on Italian staples accompanied by a curated wine list in a sleek, high-ceilinged space. Situated opposite the church of Santa Maria in Vallicella (known to locals as Chiesa Nuova or new church), this restaurant is named after its owner and maître-d’ Alessandro Pipero. Young chef Ciro Scamardella from Campania is at the helm in the kitchen, where he prepares modern dishes with a focus on the seasons, including a few specialities from his native region. His cuisine demonstrates a continuous search for balance and colour – the recipe that particularly impressed our inspectors was his reinterpretation of mussel soup, in which the full flavour of the sea shone through. A second dining room on the first floor, decorated in the same refurbished style, is available for small groups and private dinners.