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Mardakan Castle, Azerbaijan 

This 22m square-plan tower is the more interesting of Mərdəkan’s two crenellated fortress keeps. If you want to get in and up the five flights of unlit steps to the rooftop, seek out key-holder, Vidadi, who lives in one of the closest houses.

The tower is accessed off Kolxoz küç, about 15 minutes’ walk from Pir Həsən following Ramin Qazimov küç west. Buses back to Baku pick up from Yesenin küç around three minutes’ walk south.

Epic Azerbaija Culture & Adventure Route © Monika Newbound

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