Korzhenevskaya Peak, Tajikistan
Pik Korzhenevskaya is the third highest peak in the Pamir after Pik Somoni (formerly Pik Kommunizma) and Pik Lenin, and the fourth highest in the former Soviet Union. It is located just south of the Tajik-Kyrgyz border in the “Peter The First” sub-range. It rises on the south bank of the Muksu River, and to the west of the peak is the Fortambek Glacier. Pik Korzhenevskaya is just a few kms north of Pik Somoni.
It was first discovered in 1905 by the Geography professor Korzhenevski, who had followed the Muksu River to the south side of the peak. He named the peak after his wife, Evgenia Korzhenevskaya.
The first ascent was not made until 1953; back then an eight-person team from Leningrad, lead by A. Ugarov, approached the peak from the north-west via the Muksu valley, ascended the lower Fortambek glacier and climbed the peak from the western side.
1972 the first ascent by an all-female team was achieved, and in 1986 the first winter ascent was done.
Epic Tajikistan Culture & Adventure Route © Monika Newbound
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