Kaiseki Hachisen

Kyokaiseki Hachisen

Kyokaiseki Hachisen is a couple’s long pursuit for the ultimate kaiseki experience. From exquisite seasonal recipes to subtle details like hand-picked flowers, Masayoshi Amano and his wife have enchanted guests with their warm hospitality for thirty years. Curated by the chef who is also a Zen priest, the special shojin menu in August is a meal not to be missed.

Established in 1987, the beloved restaurant is found in a quiet residential neighborhood of Nekogahoratori on the east end of Nagoya. The sight of the entrance alone reveals their sophisticated aesthetics. The large blue noren that hangs over the door is a traditional weave, featuring a beautiful geometric pattern. The round brown vase holds a picturesque arrangement of wild flowers and tall leaves, picked in the nearby woods by the couple.

Inside, a row of small tables are set neatly across the wall. The smooth black counter across seats just five guests. The couple says the restaurant is small enough for them to make sure they watch over every guest. The quiet chef and the attentive wife work in perfect harmony in creating an inviting and relaxing atmosphere.

Hachisen takes its name from Heihachi Tea House Inn and three-starred Kichisen, the two top Kyoto establishments where Amano trained before opening his own restaurant. The characters are a symbol of his great appreciation for the experiences that have become the foundations of his culinary career.

The Hachisen cuisine is based on the “art of subtraction,” the chef explains. The idea is not to overwork on the ingredients or add unnecessary elements but focus on bringing out the pure flavor of the food. Despite the minimalistic approach, every dish is deep and complex in flavor and astonishing to look at. The presentation, including the selection of tableware, is an important part of the equation in unleashing the potential of the dish.

Amano is also a Zen priest, trained at Manpukuji temple in Kyoto. As head temple of the Obaku school, the temple has a distinctly Ming Chinese influence that sets it apart from other temples and is evident in its unique architecture, rituals and of course, cuisine. To share his Buddhist learnings, the chef curates a special shojin meal during the month of August. Specifically, the style is called Fucha, which means having tea with the broad public.