Jamnagar Old Railway Station, Gujarat, India

The heart of the old city is known as Chandi Bazaar (Silver Market; which it is, among other things) and it contains heaving markets and three beautiful Jain temples. The larger two, Shantinath Mandir and Adinath Mandir, dedicated to the 16th and first tirthankars (great Jain teachers), explode with fine murals, mirrored domes and elaborate chandeliers. The Shantinath Mandir is particularly beautiful, with coloured columns and a gilt-edged dome of concentric circles.

Around the temples spreads the old city with its lovely buildings of wood and stone, peeling, pastel-coloured shutters and crumbling wooden balconies. Willingdon Crescent, a European-style arcaded crescent, was built by Jam Ranjitsinhji to replace Jamnagar’s worst slum. It now houses an assortment of shops, and is commonly known as Darbargadh, after the now-empty royal residence across the street. Subhas market, the vegetable market, has lots of local colour.

Visit India Epic India Route © Monika Newbound

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