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Hayashi Department Store, West Central District, Tainan City, Taiwán 

This art-deco department store from the 1930s so close to the hearts of Tainaners has been beautifully restored and finally reopened its doors in 2013 after several decades of disuse. Do go inside just to ascend the sweeping staircase, peer through geometrical window openings, and have a ride on the grandma lift with the dial floor indicator. There’s a viewing deck on the top floor where you’ll find a Shinto shrine and evidence of the damage it suffered during the war.

Known locally as Lin’s Department Store or Five Stories, Hayashi was Tainan’s first department store and Taiwan’s second, when it opened in 1932. Everyone wanted to ride on its elevator even if they couldn’t afford the goods. Earnings made by the store were delivered just across the road to the neoclassical Nippon Kangyo Bank, predecessor of the Land Bank. In the 1930s Hayashi was doing so well that locals joked that to bring the money somewhere further away would be too risky. The duo were the cornerstones of Tainan’s most affluent area. Being the tallest building in Tainan brought trouble during WWII. Hayashi was seriously damaged by air raids and the top floor was subsequently used to conduct anti-aircraft warfare.

Take the Red Line bus heading towards Anping Industrial Park from Tainan Railway Station, and get off at Hayashi Department Stop.

Epic Taiwan Culture & Adventure Route © Monika Newbound

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