Stanage Edge Rock Climbing
The immense 7km long Stanage Edge is certainly the most famous gritstone crag in England. The outcrop is highly popular, partly because of its proximity to both Sheffield and Manchester, but above all due of its wealth of quality routes. The first climbs date all the way back to 1890 and over 1300 routes have now been established along the edge, ranging from Moderate to desperate E8 – enough to last a lifetime!
The vast majority of routes are relatively easy and ideal therefore for beginners as they tend to follow well-protected crack lines. Having said that, the smooth faces and rounded arête are a brilliant natural playground for those in search of quality testpieces.
Climbers visiting the area for the first time shouldn’t miss out on the Flying Buttress at the Popular End and the routes on High Neb. Joe Brown’s 1949 Right Unconquerable HVS 5a is the classic route of the crag, but Quietus E2 5c and Old Friends E4 5c are equally famous. The stunning barn door arête Archangel E3 5b at Goliath’s Groove is psychologically demanding while its neighbour Ulysses E6 6b is a rite of passage to the upper extremes.
England Culture & Tourism Route © Monika Simon Newbound 2020
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