Anzob Tunnel, Tajikistan
5,040 meters of tunneled asphalt make up the connection between north and south Tajikistan, arguably a step up from the former dirt road that was regularly closed due to frequent, almost year-round avalanches. Called “The Tunnel of Fear” and “The Tunnel of Death” by locals, its importance lies in the fact that, unlike the previous route, it avoids cutting through less-than-friendly Uzbekistan. The construction of this route between major cities Dushanbe and Khujand has allowed commerce to flow with far less interruption, and Tajikistan no longer has to be split in two through the entire winter season.
Sounds fantastic, so what’s the problem? It can’t be that dangerous, at least not as dangerous as an unfriendly territory or a snowed-in dirt road, right?
Let’s start with illumination in the tunnel–there isn’t any. Aside from the headlights of your vehicle and those of your fellow tunnel dwellers, there is no lighting to speak of. Not completely unheard of; an inconvenience really–until you realize there are potholes. Not small potholes that give you a little rattle as you truck along, but BIG potholes. Big, axle-snapping potholes that are difficult to see in the dark tunnel, that also happen to be filled with water. Some of them have several feet of water, and are basically small, tunnel ponds.
Epic Tajikistan Culture & Adventure Route © Monika Newbound
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